tell me what you want, what you really really want
Now you’ve arrived in Libya you will need some assistance in navigating your way through the stores in Tripoli. Inevitably there will be something you wish you’d packed, and you will need to source it locally. It can be a daunting process at first for some. The following pages provide information on some of the stores you may wish to visit.
Food
You will find that there are essentially four types of stores found in the shopping districts in Libya. Dry goods stores, bakeries, butchers and fruit and vegetable stores. In the fruit and vegetable stores you will find a selection of seasonal produce. Bakeries sell fresh bread, around the clock, at very low prices. You will find mostly bread rolls, hard or soft, and toast bread. Whole meal bread (“brown bread”) is hard to find. Dry goods stores will stock similar items to your average western supermarket, however on a much smaller scale. You should be able to find tinned fruit and vegetables, juice and soft drinks, dry goods such as pasta, rice or cous cous and snacks such as crisps, sweet and dry biscuits and confectionery. These stores will often also stock dried meats and a dairy fridge with milk, yogurt and cheese. You will also find household cleaning products, personal care and toiletries.
Shop opening hours in Libya are fluid. With the exception of greengrocers, who are open nearly all the time, few shops open early. You can forget the idea of shopping on the way back from the school drop off. Many shops are open from roughly 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Most shops close in the afternoon and reopen around 5 p.m. Supermarkets tend to stay open in the afternoon. With small shops the times vary according to how the owner feels or what else they want to do. The big shopping time in Libya is during the evening until late, so you will find the streets busy from 7 - 11 p.m. because people are out shopping. In Ramadan shops open later in the morning, if at all, but will be open from a couple of hours after sunset (to give people time to eat) until the early hours of the next morning.
The Gargaresh shopping strip offers a good selection of favourite stores. These stores attract expats from the surrounding areas of Siraj, and Janzour as well as those living off Gargaresh.
For residents on the other side of town, a trip into Tripoli's one and only mall would perhaps be the best bet. The Souk Atalat Aljaded (New Tuesday Market), covers four floors. It houses a number of retail clothing and electrical stores, but more importantly, a large supermarket which sports a gluten free section. You will also find a greengrocer, and a bakery.
For fresh produce there is the fish market in town, local butchers who will grind pure beef before your very eyes, and of course the delights of the Friday market's fruit and vegetable stalls.
For fresh dairy products, go to the dairy on Gargaresh Road. It is situated between the Regatta entrance and the roundabout. Leaving Regatta, turn right and go past the car workshops and cafe. You will see green railings on your right and this is the dairy. They sell fresh milk in sealed plastic bags (you have to get the knack of snipping the corners then decanting the milk into a jug), ricotta cheese, yoghourt and thick cream. if you are not partial to the taste of long life milk, you may wish to buy your milk there and keep it in the freezer. However, once opened it has a very short life. Another alternative is the Italian long life milk which is now available and has a similar taste to fresh milk.
The best time to go to the dairy is late afternoon. There is always a queue; if there is no queue, it's not open! However, women don't have to queue - they are ushered right to the counter!
Insider’s tip: Al Aruba, commonly known by expats as ‘The Welcome Store’, are known to stock certain products craved by expats and not found anywhere else. Al Aruba is a double fronted, split level store, of moderate proportions, however it stocks a large variety of dry goods. To list a few of the coveted treats; Haribo marshmallows, Quaker's quick oats, Heinz Ketchup, Weetabix, Oreos, Cathedral & Pilgrim's Choice Cheese, Mr Kipling Fruity Pies, Oxo stock cubes, Dorset Muesli, and Alpine Muesli products. Al Aruba is one of the few stores open on Friday mornings.
Al Aruba can be found on the left on Gargaresh, a few blocks after the Shell building heading towards town.
Setting up home
Now that you’ve arrived and have seen your accommodation first hand, you may wish to further accessorise to make your house a home.
A large selection of furniture and lighting shops can be found along the Gargaresh shopping street. There are also some stores in the surrounding areas of Siraj and Janzour.
Home appliances are in abundance in Tripoli and it won’t be difficult to stumble upon a Homewares shop. There is also a large homewares shop in the Souk Atalat Aljaded (New Tuesday Market).
Top tip: Avoid the Gargaresh stores and head to Souk Abu Slim (nearby to the Tripoli Zoo) where you will find an entire street dedicated to selling modern and traditional style rugs. If you’re unable to speak Arabic, take an Arabic speaker with you to ensure you are not overcharged.
Scattered around Tripoli are a number of plant nurseries and farms selling a wealth of fully grown lush green plants which will bring life to your space. The plants are reasonably priced and for very little you can transform your living space into a cool and relaxing place to be.
Curtain fabric can be sourced cheaply, and the curtains made even cheaper. Curtains are an easy way to make your house feel more like a home, and to reflect your individual personality.
Head to Jama’a Assaqua’a Road, which is found at the end of Bin Ashur Street, coming from town. The Market is on the left hand side. It will become obvious as you drive nearer to the area as the shops/stalls are outside on the street.
This area also has a number of furniture shops, where prices are reasonable. Furniture is typically Libyan style. This can be a convenient place to shop as there are plenty of pick-up trucks available to deliver your purchases to your home at a small cost. They will follow you to your home directly.
Often you will find where furniture is sold in more up-market shops, that it will be difficult to purchase one piece of furniture on its own, for example, one sofa or one wardrobe. Furniture is often sold in complete sets.
By injecting a few new pieces in and adding your own flare and style, you will come home to a space that feels more like your own in such a different environment, that you can be proud of and enjoy. Not only that, but when you finally relocate back to your home country you will be armed with souvenirs telling of a life abroad, ensuring that Libya leaves it's mark on you, long after your assignment has ended.
Baby & children
There are two toy stores widely used by the expat community as they stock good quality toys and brands such as Little Tikes, Lego, Duplo and Playmobil. These can be found at:
The Little Tikes Store which is found on Gargaresh. The Little Tikes store stocks a range of brands such as Little Tikes, Lego, Duplo and Playmobil. They stock a modest range of children's outdoor play equipment from Little Tikes, such as slides, sand pits and playhouses.
To find the store, head towards town from the Regatta roundabout. Once you pass the Omega Centre (on your right), it is in the next strip of shops. You will see the green turf outside the shop which is lined by a white picket fence. When the shop is open, play equipment is displayed on the grass area, as is a large Playmobil character.
The Chicco store can be found on a street off Gargaresh. The street runs directly behind the Havana Juice Store which is the street marker. This is a large two storey store, stocking the full Chicco range. You will be able to purchase toys, prams, baby equipment, clothes and shoes.
For more children’s clothing and shoes, try BHS, Next, OVS Industry, Marks and Spencer, Obaibi, Benetton and Monsoon (all located on Gargaresh).
Books
There are three international bookstores which can be found in Tripoli. The Fergiani book stores offer a small section of travel, language and general fiction and non-fiction books in English print. The selection is small, however it will keep you going until your next trip home.
The newest shop to open is the Al Resalah bookshop. Al Resalah can be found in Hai Al Andalus near the French School.
The store is stocked with English books and unlike other international bookstores in town, it boasts a varied selection of English reading, including cooking books, (Jamie Oliver and the Aussie Women’s Weekly among them), current and modern fiction, classic fiction, design, DIY ....
The store will also order specific books into the store for customers.
Fergiani Bookshop
First September Street
Ph: (+218) 21 444 4873
Email: Fergi_u@hotmail.com
Fergiani Bookshop
Hai Al-Andalus
(On Gargaresh in the same strip of shops as Caracalla)
Ph (+218) 91 215 1280
Email: ufergiani@yahoo.com
DVD/music
It doesn't seem to be possible to buy legal DVDs in Libya. If you can't wait till your next trip home, you will find that almost any software, music or DVD you wish to buy can be found and purchased very cheaply.
It is important to note that it is illegal to purchase and pirate software, music or DVDs in Libya.
If you do choose to purchase pirated software, music or DVDs please note that you must not take them out of the country as you may be prosecuted upon arrival in your next posting.
There are a number of stores which sell a selection of standard DVD players and portable CD, DVD, MP3 and MP4 players.
Western clothing
There are a small number of stores selling western clothing. Some of the stores and brands featured are; La Senza, Marks and Spencer, Per Una, Mango, Monsoon/Accessorise, Levi’s, Lee, Timberland, Aftershock, Lacoste, Naf Naf, Hang Ten, Benetton, BHS (British Home Stores), Obaibi, Bossini, Next, Nike, Adidas, OVS Industry, and H & M.
Sporting gear
There are a number of stores where you are able to buy equipment for your own personal gym, as well as other sporting equipment, gear and accessories. Gargaresh hosts a selection of these stores.
Garden
Scattered around Tripoli you will find plant nurseries selling a wealth of fully grown lush greenhouse plants and outdoor plants. Try to avoid small stores on Gargaresh and head out to Siraj and Janzour, where you will find plant farms selling more variety and cheaper, larger plants.
For terracotta pots, a visit to Gharyan will be in order where you will find a plethora of pots in a multitude of different sizes, textures and shapes and for very reasonable prices. Here you will find small pots for as little as 5 LYD and large pots 20 LYD.
Hardware/DIY
There are an abundance of small hardware stores around Tripoli, which, depending on your shopping list, should be able to satisfy your needs. However a new large hardware store has opened up recently in Tajura which stocks a number of products not previously available in Libya. To find it, travel along the highway to Tajura heading towards Misurata. On the right between the first and second set of traffic lights.
ACE Hardware
Opening Hours: 9am - 10pm Saturday to Thursday
3.30 - 11.00 pm Fridays
Website: http://www.acehardware.com
Hair & beauty
The salon most frequented by expats can be found above the Nike Store on Gargaresh. They provide a number of services including make-up, hairdressing, manicure and pedicure treatments, facials, massage treatments and waxing.
+218 92 497 5562 or +218 21 478 0123
To enter the salon, walk around the outside of the shop to the back where you’ll find a door leading to a white staircase. The salon is on the third level. You will see signs along the way.
Also recommended is the Waha Beauty Centre in Bin Ashour. The salon offers various kinds of massage, facial and skin treatments, nail treatments and hair removal.
Waha Beauty Centre (Waha Centre de Beaute)
Behind Al-Morjan Supermarket,
nearby to the Al-Mokhtar hospital
Bin Ashour, Tripoli.
Tel: +218 21 361 3085
Mob: +218 92 284 7387
Email: info@waha-center.ly
Shopping malls
The concept of a shopping mall is very new to Libyans, with the majority of shopping being done in shopping districts where individual stalls line the streets.
Souk Al-Thalat
The Souk Al-Thalat (Tuesday Market) is Tripoli’s newest shopping mall. On the ground floor a large supermarket along with a bakery and fruit and vegetable market hall can be found. The supermarket stocks a wide range of foods, but it does not stock foods that can't be found in individual stores around the various shopping districts. It does however give you the best comparison of goods, as they are housed together in one place.
On the first floor a large homewares store can be found. Once again, this store does not necessarily stock products that can't be found in individual stores, however it does stock an extensive range with which to compare. A large selection of plastic containers, crockery, and electrical appliances are amongst these.
On the third floor there are several children's amusement park rides, including soft play inflatable jumping castles for young children and dodgem cars for older children. A monorail circles the roof of this floor and a central ticket booth operates. Also on this floor is a small food court.
The rest of the complex is broken up into a variety of small stores.
Mahari
Many expats live in Janzour and Seraj, so for them, Mahari is hardly their local shop. Nonetheless, if you are going downtown, it is worth taking a coolbox and stocking up on some essentials at Mahari. The supermarket area
is not huge, but it has most of the things you need including wholemeal and gluten-free products. It is also very good on cereals. The butcher is friendly and helpful and you can even buy ostrich meat and eggs there. Likewise there is a good selection of fish, and because so many people use Mahari, you know that there is a good turnover of fresh products. It's also a useful place for dried goods, spices and nuts, although I was somewhat perplexed when, having looked up 'turmeric' in Arabic, I was asked to choose between two sorts. This happened with other spices too ...
Apart from the supermarket there are various other 'shops' in the complex: incense and toiletries, a perfume mixing bar, pastries and coffee grinder, watches, stationery, clothing, shoes, and an excellent household goods section. There is a small greengrocer's next to the supermarket with a much larger one just outside the gates. Compared to the Souk Al-Thalat supermarket it is easier to get round because it is smaller and it probably has more variety, although doesn't have as good a cheese section and is missing a bakery. Mahari has interesting items such as square washing up bowls, loose glitter, and glass Italian food storage containers.
It is open from 9 in the morning until half past midnight, so it is best to pick a quieter time such as early morning or mid-afternoon to avoid confrontations in the car park. On Fridays it is open from 9.30 a.m. to 12.30 p.m. and then from 5 p.m. to half past midnight. The location is Zawia al-Dahmani, which is close to the sea and near the British Residence. If you are going along Jamahiriya Street towards the sea, turn left at the junction with Fashloum Street (where there is a huge sort of lampost in the middle of the road) and then bear right where you see a tea garden on a traffic island. Mahari is a few metres along the road on your right, behind black railings and grass.
shopping guide
